Sacred Trails: Hiking Ololokwe
An overcast morning atop Mt. Ololokwe
Mount Ololokwe, arguably one of Kenya’s most iconic landmarks, stands as proof of the country's breathtakingly diverse landscapes. Its distinctive flat-topped profile and steep cliffs make it a striking feature of northern Kenya's skyline. Also known as Ol Donyo Sabache, this sacred mountain is synonymous with Kenya’s ‘Big North’ and often serves as the gateway to the north—a region characterised by arid and semi-arid terrains, dry riverbeds, dramatic mountains, monoliths, and rocky deserts.
In the local Samburu language, “Ololokwe” translates to “wide head,” a name as distinctive as the mountain itself, drawing both nature enthusiasts and passionate hikers to its rugged beauty. As a wildlife and landscape photographer, I’m always drawn to places that hold both natural beauty and cultural depth, and Mount Ololokwe embodies just that. My first encounter with this majestic mountain was through an advertisement by a leading telecommunications company, showcasing some of Kenya's most iconic landscapes. That ad sparked my wanderlust, and in December 2016, I set out to photograph the mountain for the first time.
Fast forward to 2024, and my curiosity about this sacred mountain had only deepened. Joined by my girlfriend, we planned a road trip to hike Ololokwe. We’d heard countless tales of the breathtaking views from the summit and couldn’t wait to witness them firsthand.
The mountain is about a five-hour drive from Nairobi. Thanks to the tarmacked road along the A2 highway, it's quite feasible to set off in the morning, drive to the base, and begin your hike the same day. The only stretch of off-road driving is a manageable 2-kilometer detour to the base.
We arranged for a guide and porters through Sabache Camp, the sole base camp in the area. This eco-tented safari camp is owned and operated by the local Samburu community. While the camp offers accommodations, our goal was to camp overnight at the top of the mountain and immerse ourselves in nature.
Upon arrival, we met our guide and two porters, who quickly organized our gear for the hike. Looking up from the base, the climb ahead seemed daunting, especially since I hadn’t hiked in a while. However, the hike is moderate for anyone with average fitness. Armed with a walking stick from our guide, I glanced at my watch—it was 2:40 PM. We aimed to reach our campsite in about three hours, just in time for a magical sunset.
The hike began through a lush base forest, setting the tone for what would become one of the most scenic hikes I’ve ever done. At approximately 2,000 meters above sea level, Ololokwe’s elevation may not sound intimidating, but its steep inclines certainly make you break a sweat. Luckily, the overcast sky provided us with cool, comfortable weather during the ascent.
As we climbed higher, the views became increasingly spectacular. In the distance to the east, we spotted the distinctive Cat & Mouse rock outcrop. The trail was fascinating, offering a variety of plant species at different elevations and captivating stories from our guide about the mountain’s deep cultural and spiritual importance. For centuries, Ololokwe has been more than just a landmark to the Samburu people—it is a sacred space, regarded as a spiritual bridge between the earthly and divine realms. Local rituals and ceremonies, including rainmaking prayers and blessings for prosperity, were often conducted on the mountain, reflecting its sacred status within the community. Its unique microclimate nurtures a haven of lush vegetation, an oasis in an otherwise unforgiving landscape, providing water and pasture for livestock, which are the lifeblood of the Samburu's pastoral lifestyle.
As part of a time-honoured tradition, first-time hikers honour the mountain’s sacredness by placing a small stone on a growing pile along the trail. Each stone is a humble tribute to the ancestors who are believed to watch over the mountain, creating a tangible connection between past and present. This simple yet meaningful act connects visitors to the generations who have honoured the mountain before them, reinforcing its spiritual significance and the respect it commands. This blend of natural splendour and cultural depth makes Ololokwe far more than just a hike—it is a journey into the heart of the Samburu’s heritage.
Reaching the summit felt surreal. The mountain’s flat top revealed an entirely different ecosystem—a verdant forest with towering trees, small streams of crystal-clear water, and a refreshing cool breeze. It was nothing short of magical as we made our way to the campsite near the edge of the steep cliffs that define Ololokwe’s iconic profile.
At 5:50 PM, we arrived at our campsite, just over three hours after starting the hike. The sunset unfolded behind us, casting the mountain’s shadow across the golden Samburu plains below. I had dreamed of this moment for years, and experiencing it in person was profoundly special. The peace and fulfilment that nature offers are truly beyond words. Moments like these are the ones we’ll reminisce about when we’re older and no longer able to hike mountains like this.
We had logged about 15,000 steps, the equivalent of climbing 157 floors—a worthy replacement for any gym session we’d skipped during the trip. As darkness descended, we cooked dinner and settled into our tent for the night. As the winds howled around 8:00 PM, our tent quivered under the force, and for a moment, I wondered if we’d take flight into the dark skies. Thankfully, our guide reassured us this was normal for the mountain, and by 10:00 PM, the gusts eased, leaving the summit peaceful and still for the rest of the night.
The next morning was tranquil. Although I’d hoped to capture the perfect sunrise shot, the overcast sky had other plans. Still, nature had a surprise for us—a low-hanging cloud formed in front of us, creating dramatic, ethereal scenes. As the sun struggled to break through, its rays pierced the clouds, adding a touch of magic to the already breathtaking views.
Over breakfast, we soaked in the serenity of being above the clouds, with intermittent sunshine illuminating the endless vistas. It was the perfect way to end an unforgettable hike. After reluctantly packing up, we began our descent, aiming to reach the base by noon. Along the way, we marveled at more scenic views and even spotted elephant tracks. Leaving us baffled at how these massive animals navigate such steep terrain.
Mount Ololokwe is more than just a destination—it’s an experience that lingers in your soul. A journey through its sacred trails and breathtaking views leaves you humbled, connected, and inspired by the timeless beauty of nature and the heritage it protects.
